Saturday, March 3

Its the Sabbath and we are in Jerusalem!

The pace of life as we have known it in the city has changed. Less people are out in the streets and stores aren't open. The prevalence of the Orthodox community is felt today.

With it being another cold, dreary, rainy day our schedule shifted and we visited the Bible Lands Museum and the Islamic Art Museum.

At the Bible Lands Museum we were able to see artifacts from a broad range of cultures from the Ancient Near East. (Website: http://www.blmj.org) Some of my favorite exhibits included the seals and amulets from Mesopotamia, the model of Egyptian burial grounds at Giza, and a model of Jerusalem during the end of the first temple period.

One of my favorite parts about visiting museums in Israel so far has been the fascinating models. The attention to intricate details is incredible.

A few of us finished exploring the museum a bit ahead of schedule. We gathered in the lobby and dreamed of grilled cheese and tomato soup due to the weather. Barkai, our security guard, was unfamiliar with the concept of grilled cheeses. So the last 20 minutes of our time at the Bible Lands Museum was focused on educating Barkai on the value of a good grilled cheese. Additionally, a brilliant business plan was established by Alissa and I. More details to emerge at a later date. Look for us in Forbes magazine.

The Islamic Art Museum (http://www.islamicart.co.il/en/default.asp#t1)  in Jerusalem has collections that represent various periods of Islamic rule from the seventh to the nineteenth centuries CE. Also, it hosts a watches and clocks collection. Surprise!

One of my favorite parts of this museum was a photo exhibit on "Travels to Yemen 1987 -2008" by Naftali Hilger. There was one picture in particular that stuck out to me -- Oussama (age 8) runs the spice store. Something about this kids face, and the responsibility he carries, and the knife in the front of his outfit... is just haunting.

Obviously, we explored the Antique Watches and Clocks!  The highlight of this exhibit was the Marie Antoinette time piece. The headset that we had guiding us through the clocks was very dramatic and had great music emphasizing the significance of this clock. I wish you could hear it as you read this blog!

The rest of the day was very low key. Seth's parents are also in town for the week, and we were able to have dinner with Mr. Goren. We went to one of Seth's favorite locations -- Tmol Shilshom. Its a bookstore/cafe with some seriously delicious food.

Here is a pic of my dinner:

That's right. Be jealous. 

As we were wrapping up dinner a former student of Seth's, Andrew Lustig, joined us. Now, I'm not sure how familiar you are with Andrew... but if you don't know him, you should. I've been struggling to find a way to describe Andrew... so instead,  I'm going to lead you to the first you tube video he made. And then, you'll understand. He is just incredibly special. And I am glad to have had the opportunity to meet him. 

[Also! I want to note that while leaving dinner, Andrew made sure to chat with Mr. Goren and tell him what an impact Seth has had in his life. It was very touching! It was also fun to see Seth squirm.]

Wow. This is a long post. And it was a slow day. YIKES.

Ok, I'll start wrapping up.  After dinner, even though we were stuffed, we went to a waffle bar. Let me rephrase that. A waffle stand. A famous waffle stand with epic waffles. I had a waffle with chocolate syrup and bananas. It was warm, gooey and delicious. 

Here is a picture of us devouring our waffle: 

After eating, Mr. Goren was kind enough to drive us back to the hotel. Knowing that we haven't seen Jerusalem yet, he drove us around. It made us all excited about what the rest of the week would look like! :)

Friday, March 2nd

After Yad Vashem, what could we possibly do?

Well, we ate like 18 times. AND visited Machne Yehuda.

Machne Yehuda is a market place. Since I can't post my pictures go here:

CRAZY MARKET!

Vendors are yelling...there is fresh produce everywhere. Words cannot describe the madness.

It was quite simply fantastic.

In between stopping for Israeli chocolates, which I will expand upon shortly, we were able to explore at our own pace a market place that functions as the heart of a community. People come together here, especially before Shabbat, to stock up and catch up.

Due to the high traffic area, the market was a frequent target for terrorist attacks during the Second Intifada. I will say that I felt completely safe at all times -- and was only worried when forced to walk on the streets due to overcrowding. If you have seen how Israeli's drive, you would understand :)

While exploring the market, we found an artist's cooperative Pri HaAdama. I bought most of my souvenirs here! The store is run by artists and several folks have their artwork available for purchase. AMAZING.

As I was typing this I found a link to a video on the store: Hole in the Wall

Ack. Ok, back to the candy. SO MUCH CANDY. Literally every other stand in the market place was candy oriented. Lots and lots of candy. Wildly popular options during this trip was the chocolate pop rock bars and anything Kinder-ish. (insert kinder bueno or kinder eggs)

Because I am unable to truly describe the sheer deliciousness albeit bizarreness of aforementioned candy, I have brought some back with me to America. FDA WARNINGS be damned! So if you are interested in some, stop by Ulrich.

After the market place, we went back to our hotel. The entire community was shutting down for Shabbat. Streets were being fenced in (so that cars wouldn't drive in Orthodox communities), elevators were stopping on every. single. floor. so that orthodox guests would not have to push the button for their door. It was incredible! It was such an eye-opening experience to be in Jerusalem for the Sabbath.

Seth and Rachel were able to lead Shabbat services, which is always very moving.

We then gathered together for ONEG in the lobby of the 7th floor. Oneg (which I think I'm remembering correctly) means enjoyment.  Typically after shabbat we get together and enjoy each others company, make fun of Seth and/or Alissa, and play games. I was thrilled that we were able to continue the tradition I've only experienced in Pennsylvania.

We were quite the crowd in the lobby. Every single time someone stepped off the elevator they would gasp as they saw this unruly crowd gathered in a tiny common space. It was memorable. And of course, it should be mentioned that we ate. A LOT during oneg. Because that's how we roll.

Friday was a day that started off with such darkness in Yad Vashem, it is incredible to think that it ended in such happiness and enjoyment (oneg).  In between the dark and the light, we were able to gather together and hear prayers that millions have heard for thousands of years. We drank from a kiddish cup that was full to the rim, symbolizing that our joy should be "full." And it was. But I couldn't help but think of all the faces I saw in Yad Vashem.

This Shabbat was unlike any other. I will never forget it.

Lo Nishkach --  לא נשכח

Yad Vashem

The visit to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Memorial, deserves its own post.

Just reflecting about it brings overwhelming feelings. What a beautifully done museum to commemorate the most horrible atrocity in recent history.

I'm going to quickly bullet point some of the things that stuck out to me while exploring the memorial:

- The green canisters of zyklon b with the bright orange labels is an image that will haunt me.

- Throughout the museum there are videos of different survivors telling their story. In the very first room this stoic, beautiful, woman recalls the Nazis taking her mother away from their home. As she tells the story she chokes up and needs a few moments before continuing. I still get chills thinking about it.

- There was this video that split a screen in half and showed what the propaganda machine of the Third Reich would communicate with the masses regarding concentration camps, and on the other half show the reality. The stark differences were horrifying.

- A typewriter with keys programmed with the SS symbol and the swatiska.

- Videos and pictures throughout the museum. So many people. So many horrifying stories. Children. Men. Women. Brothers. Sisters. Parents. Grandparents. One picture taken at a party with 56 people before the Holocaust. Only 10 survived.

- An original document with Himmler's signature. Sickening.

- Art from the ghettos. Drawings, poems, stories. The importance of art was not lost even in the harshest circumstances. It was crucial for survival.

- A ship, MS St. Louis, tried to find home for German Jews in 1939. Its first stop was Havana, Cuba. They were turned away. They were also turned away from the United States. Eventually returning to Europe where many of the passengers died in the Holocaust. As a Cuban-American this made me physically sick. In times of crisis, how could we -- countries built upon immigrants -- turn away people at a time of need?

- Garden of the Righteous. Trees are planted in honor of those who risked their lives to save Jewish individuals. Oskar Schindler's tree was spotted. Along with many other heros.

- Childrens' Memorial. Over 1.5 children were killed in the Holocaust. That's an incredibly difficult number to wrap your mind around. The memorial for the children is brilliantly designed. You enter a dark cave, and hold a rail on the right while names and ages were read to you. The numbing of all senses (except hearing, obviously) forces one to truly focus. Incredibly moving. The tour guide, Yael, challenged us to remember one name. I remember Moeshe, age 12.

- The last room Yad Vashem is the Hall of Names. As you enter this cone-shaped room, you see book shelves from floor to ceiling that contain the names of all those who perished. Half the room is empty. Symbolic that for as much as we know, there is still more that we do not know. To this day, they are still collecting testimonies from people across the world.

I can go on and on... And quite frankly, feel the need to prepare all of you dear friends that I am going to need to process this with you so be prepared...

In the morning as we were driving up to Yad Vashem, it was a miserable, dreary and snowy day. You should know that it only snows in Israel once every four years. As I look back, it was quite fitting/symbolic. The weather reflected how I felt upon leaving the memorial.

WOW. Heavy post.

Please note that for some reason, blogger won't let us upload pictures. SO SORRY! It might be our internet access is not strong enough...

Also, I cannot encourage you enough to check out my two favorite peop;e's blogs:

alissaintheholyland.blogspot.com

jessintheholyland.blogspot.com

They are both significantly smarter than I am and will be able to provide a different perspective on this incredible journey I am privileged to be a part of...

Until tomorrow...

Sheket. Sheket.

Am writing this from my phone in our room since the Internet is fickle. If I move just two centimeters in any direction I might lose service do work with me.

Sheket.

Yesterday (Friday) we hit Yad Vashem. The Holocaust memorial in Jerusalem. Absolutely amazing. Will write an entire post on that experience. Then in what seems to be the standard during this trip we ate 26 meals in 12 hours and visited a market. Amazing. Overwhelming number of people and shops. Will post pictures soon. I promise.

After that we had Shabbat dinner as a group at the hotel and took over the lobby area of the seventh floor for oneg.

Oneg literally translates to enjoyment (if memory serves correct).

We hung out, talked about random things, made fun of Alissa, ate more food, and laughed a lot. Overall an amazing evening.

Today with the weather still not cooperating, we visited the Bible Lands Museum and then went to the Islamic Art Museum.

Since its still the sabbath everything is closed. The streets are completely empty.

At 615 today te sabbath breaks and we'll be heading to Ben yehuda street for dinner on our own. Should be interesting!

More to come soon.

Until then.

We've Landed!

Its official, we're in Israel.

WOW.

I'm going to preface this post by saying, please check out Jess's blog at: jessintheholyland.blogspot.com

Jess has been diligent and posting even while at 30,000 feet in the air.

Overachiever.

OK!

So here's the deal. We made it to the airport in the United States and experienced the most intense questioning EVER to board a plane. Not so much the traditional, did you pack your own bag? Oh, no. We're talking about tell me your life story? Did anyone give you a bomb? Do you know everyone in the class? How well? It was intense.

Once we made it to the gate, you would think its all over.

Not so much. Two student participants were pulled aside and kept in a seperate room for questioning until minutes before the plane boarded.

It was quite the experience -- and one that resonated with me on many levels. Primarily, how privileged I am to live in a place where security and personal safety isn't something I MUST think of all time. Whereas in Israel, it is absolutely thought of and front of mind.

The plane ride was what you would expect: LONG.

What I didn't expect was meals every 2 hours. LITERALLY. Pasta Bolognese at 3 am? SURE! Breakfast omelet at 9 pm? SURE!


As we arrived at Ben Gurion airport (which is HUGE and beautiful!), we went through customs and of course sat down for lunch. I don't know about you, but I'm noticing a trend.

We met our fabulous tour guide, YAEL, and our armed guard, BACHI. They are going to be with us this week as we experience Israel. Yael is originally from Jerusalem and Bachi has just completed his mandatory 3 years in the Israeli Army. He is with us at all times (even at the hotel).

Due to the weather today -- lots of rain. good for jerusalem, not so good for tourists --- we did not participate in the scheduled plans. Instead we went to the Israel Museum.

At the museum we walked through some fascinating exhibits. Which I'll discuss in my next post later today. We're heading off to hear Gershom Gorenberg speak. He is a New York Times Best Selling Author and we are extremely lucky to have a private audience with him at our hotel.

More to come soon!

Leaving in a few hours...

AHHHHHH!